Ed Chavez
December 1, 2008 
Second stop on our express ride through Shogakukan’s IKKI train titles will drop me off on what has to be the most popular train comic ever made. Sure, given how train manga is deep in niche territory this is not a bold statement. Nevertheless, Tetsuko no Tabi has set itself apart from all other modern niche titles as a series that flirted with the mainstream but always kept to its outsider roots.
Tetsuko no Tabi is a nerd’s manga; it’s as otaku as it gets. Consequently the series was produced in a way where it would not offend the series base, while purposely alienating the rest of the magazine’s readership. It is rare for a major magazine to make such exceptions. However, equally as rare is a title of this nature getting the full backing of an editor in chief with decades of experience. In most circumstances a title like this would be a side project for a wacky editor. Department chiefs would permit such projects, but would limit them to the back pages and keep an eye on poll numbers and page counts. Tetsuko no Tabi had two editors work on it through its duration. Both of them were actively participating in the research and direction of the series and for their efforts were featured prominently in this semi-biographical title. Furthermore, when the series was collected into tankobon (graphic novels), the editor-in-chief also collaborated on the project (he also guest starred in a few chapters along the way, cementing his street, or rail, cred with Tetsu nationwide).
Not often do niche genres of this nature inspire the production of anime. If you get some random travel manga or a pet title it might get an official blog or its own website. Cooking manga have been adapted before, but the focus has often changed from food to drama or comedy. Antique Bakery was less about the cakes and desserts than it was about the all male staff. Really successful niche titles may only get recognition by occasionally getting a magazine cover. Publishers may appease niche fan bases by having the mangaka attend special book signings within their specialized communities. But Tetsuko no Tabi not only has a blog, it has the Japan’s premiere Tetsu working on it. Not only does the series feature real life rail queens making guest appearances in it, the creators had an opportunity to take the series on an international tour to Korea with guests on board. Not only was there a special edition made breaking down the travels by Japanese region, the reprint was packaged in its own box set with limited edition figures and a miniature train car! And yes, Tetsuko no Tabi also had an anime broadcast in a prime time slot (7:30pm) with some of the biggest names in the business to work on it.
Let me set the groundwork on this title. The premise was to create a non-fiction comic focusing on the many elements of Japan’s rail culture. The idea was initially inspired by a book IKKI Editor-in-chief Egami Hideki picked up in Jimbocho around 2000. Flipping through the shelves of the holy ground for books on rail culture on the Shosen Grande bookstore’s sixth floor, Egami came across Yokomi Hirohiko’s book Getting On and Off of JR’s 4600 Stations (Yokomi’s travel book chronicling his experience hitting all of Japan Rail’s train stations). The book blew rail freak Egami’s mind. He would then get the wheels turning to get a comic created to recapture some of the excitement Yokomi felt on his pilgrimage. Turning to fellow rail fan and Shogakukan editor Ishikawa Masahiko for assistance Tetsuko began as the collaboration between an editor and a travel writer. And it soon evolved into the tale of an editor, travel writer and girl… Because Yokomi has always wanted to travel with women. You know, to figure out ideal date routes on Japan’s many train systems.
The girl in the bunch would be Kikuchi Naoe. Kikuchi, a former Shogakukan new manga artist award winner, had worked with Shogakukan on a number of shorts. Despite her many chances, sadly none of the titles stuck. Ishikawa took a chance on Kikuchi coercing her into the project by informing her that the manga project would involve researching with a published travel writer. Research would include crossing the country experiencing the beauty of the country and the many regional cuisines that have made Japan a tourist delight.
All of that was true… But Ishikawa forgot to mention that Yokomi is not only a travel writer but a rail otaku. And that he, also being a rail otaku, wanted to use this opportunity to experience the thrills of rail culture alongside one of rail culture’s most enthusiastic characters. The truth was a little hard to deal with initially. Hopping on trains Kikuchi would normally take for granted as practically everyone travels by them regularly was not her idea of entertainment. Having to take notes and photograph every station and every train car might not have inspired much creativity either. But every month the gang of three would hit the rails to uncover Japan’s hidden gems of public transit. Whether it is covering six prefectures on a 130Y ticket or traveling on the legendary Enoshima Line the gang takes every ride in earnest. Every transfer is detailed and every ekiben (station bento) was sampled. Eventually Kikuchi would come to appreciate the joys of being a Tetsu. And while she was not going to call herself a rail queen, nor was she prepared to sleep in train stations (as this writer has on a few occasions in Japan, Portugal and England), Kikuchi was able to write a manga that gave credence to a fan base that had been in the making for more than a hundred years. A fan base that quietly finds pleasure in each ride the casual commuters take for granted. Kikuchi with the help of Yokomi and IKKI gave Tetsu a reason to travel, and while the manga series ended after five years and six volumes, Tetsuko no Tabi lives on with color reprints and special convenience store editions.
The trains will always be running in Japan. And for that reason there will always be tetsuko looking for someplace to tabi (travel).
